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Barbie in Retro Sheen

The front panel of the box for the 2005 version of "Evening Splendor."

Barbie in Retro Sheen

Barbie's most famous outfits from 1959 through the 1970s are being re-created for collectors today.

By Marianne Clay

Barbie in Retro Sheen

From her debut to the present, Barbie continually reinvented herself, and in this reproduction of "Solo in the Spotlight," a tight knit gown with long gloves and a chiffon scarf, she's a singer. This ensemble was first offered by Mattell from 1960 to 1964.

The fashion gods surely smiled when Barbie®, that fashion icon, debuted in 1959. While the basic doll came clad only in a swimsuit, sunglasses, high heels, and hoop earrings, 22 additional outfits, including those exuding the sophistication and elegance of French high fashion as well as casual sportswear for a shopping trip in the neighborhood or a backyard barbeque, could be purchased. This was the 1950s, a decade widely known as the "Golden Age of French Haute Couture," and women wore hats, nylon stockings, high heels, and gloves to go to the office, to church, to a club meeting, or to a cocktail party. Jeans or "dungarees" were worn only for digging in the garden, as the right look was formal, feminine, and often glamorous, and Barbie's wardrobe emulated it in miniature perfection.

After the deprivations of the war years, women relished the opportunity to wear luxury materials again, and, unlike today when fashion often emerges from popular culture, women looked to Paris and its elegant design houses for guidance on what to wear. Barbie's 1959 wardrobe reflected their influence. Consider, for example, "Evening Splendor," originally available for $4 and one of the most popular outfits for Barbie ever. This year Mattel's design team has carefully re-created it for today's collectors.

"We do it for the collectors, plus we love doing reproductions," explains Elizabeth Grampp at Mattel. "It honors our past, back when no one knew Barbie would become the most collectible doll in the world. We love visiting our product archives to pull out the original dolls to re-manufacture. As you would imagine, the techniques of doll making have changed and improved a lot since 1959. Sometimes we cannot do things the way they were done then. Color Magic, the Barbie that originally came with a potion to mix and change the hair and bathing suit color, is a good example. That technology is no longer available or is not deemed safe by today's standards. Color-change hair fiber has replaced the magic potion, but the color of the hair fiber does not change to the same degree as it did in the past. In this case, we opted not to include the color change feature with the doll, so we could have a more accurate visual representation of the original Color Magic."

Barbie in Retro Sheen

Originally available in 1959 and 1960, the "Commuter Set" includes a Chanel-style cardigan, straight skirt, and two blouses — one for the office and one for the evening. The cardboard hatbox is monogrammed with Barbie's signature. In the earliest sets, a trademark sign ™ follows the signature and in later sets, a ® registration mark follows the signature.

Mattel started issuing reproduction dolls in the 1990s and continues this practice today, producing one or two per year. Four reproductions, two from the "mod" era and two from the earlier "vintage" era, are planned for release in 2006. "What a really fun way to introduce best-loved dolls to new collectors and to offer seasoned collectors a version they can play with too," Elizabeth continues. "Many collectors use reproductions to augment their collections with dolls they could not otherwise find or afford. It's also fun to have a cherished doll to actually play with, so you don't have to worry about damaging the doll or the outfits. Many of the repro dolls and their outfits are fun to redress on other dolls, too."

Back in the 1990s, when Mattel first began reproducing dolls and outfits from its storied past, many of the reproduction Barbies were produced in porcelain. For this year's collection, Mattel's designers made the Barbie who wears "Evening Splendor" much like an early Barbie. This doll has, for example, the ponytail and curly bangs and the vintage body with slender arms and tapered fingers. "This re-tooled vintage body," says Elizabeth, "is more accurate to the original body, and we just introduced it this year."

In the 2005 version of "Evening Splendor," Barbie radiates sophistication in a metallic brocade dress and matching coat trimmed with faux mink cuffs, matching faux mink headband trimmed in faux pearls, faux pearl necklace and earrings, gloves, and open-toe heels, just like she did in 1959. Again, just like the original, the doll holds a turquoise purse whose color emphasizes the blue silk lining of her coat. Like every elegant lady of the 1950s, she carries a folded hankie inside her clutch, as a disposable tissue would never do for such a sophisticated lady. All the glamour and high style that was literally walking down the Paris runways in 1959 comes through.

Barbie in Retro Sheen

In "Busy Gal," a remake of a 1960-1962 outfit, Barbie dresses for success in a linen suit with all the right accessories, including her fashion design portfolio.

The sophisticated fashions of Barbie's early wardrobe came directly from Ruth Handler, the creator of Barbie, and the fashion designer Ruth found for her new doll, Charlotte Johnson. Ruth and Charlotte shared a passion for chic clothes and a desire to give their Barbie a wardrobe of high style. A freelance fashion designer, Charlotte taught at the Chouinard Art School in Los Angeles, and she loved the work from the famed Parisian design houses of the time — Christian Dior, Cristóbal Balenciaga, Hubert de Givenchy, Pierre Balmain, Lanvin-Castillo, and more. Throughout the 1960s, Charlotte and her design team traveled to Paris to attend the fall and spring showing of the new collections. Then they returned home to translate what they saw into tiny fashions that came as close as possible to the full-size versions. Jackets and coats were fully lined, the tiny zippers worked perfectly, and the doll clothing, just like the articles from a Paris designer, included a cloth label, "Barbie® ©Mattel." No wonder, from the beginning, Barbie's clothes wowed her public with quality, design, and attention to every realistic detail.

In the beginning, Charlotte worked closely with the seamstresses in Japan who meticulously sewed the clothes, often sewing the tiny buttons on by hand, so the clothing offered not only quality in design but in execution as well. Each ensemble, just like an outfit from a French fashion house, was named, and the name, such as "Elegant Splendor," often evoked a mood. Barbie's first wardrobe in 1959 included, in addition to "Elegant Splendor," "Gay Parisienne," "Roman Holiday Separates," and "Easter Parade."

For the duration of the 1960s, the Barbie wardrobe continued to accurately reflect the style of the day, moving from the French high style of the 1950s to the British "mod" look of the 1960s. Barbie's early wardrobe can be divided in two parts: the outfits made from 1959 up until 1964 are part of the 900 series and labeled accordingly, while the 1600 series, also known as the couture series, began appearing in 1964 in much smaller qualities. Elizabeth adds, "So many of our reproductions come from these best-loved fashions from the 900 series and the 1600 series." Whether driven by a love of the period fashions or nostalgia for a childhood doll they loved and lost, today's collectors love seeing Barbie in retro sheen.

Barbie in Retro Sheen

Just like in the 1959 "Easter Parade," Barbie exudes sophistication in this reproduction outfit featuring a polished cotton sheath dress worn with an unlined coat with big pockets, and large turned-up collar. In 1959, the dress only could also be purchased as "Apple Print Sheath Set #917."

Test Yourself: Barbie Trivia

What is Barbie's full name? And where is she from?

Barbara Millicent Roberts from Willows, Wis.

Who was Barbie's first clothing designer?

Charlotte Johnson, and she designed Barbie's clothes for 20 years.

What does Barbie do?

Despite her wide and varied careers, Barbie is also a student at Willows High.

Who is Francie Fairchild?

Barbie's mod cousin, and a very rare doll.

Barbie in Retro Sheen

"Suburban Shopper:" This is the 2001 remake of an outfit with blue-and-white striped dress, straw hat, and straw tote that was offered from 1959 to 1964. In 1963, Mattel also offered "Busy Morning," an identical outfit except the color scheme of "Busy Morning" was dark orange and white instead of blue and white. Both versions also came with a telephone, perhaps so Barbie could call her driver to take her to her different stops.

What famous designers have created fashions for Barbie?

Calvin Klein, Donna Karan, Bob Mackie, Nicole Miller, Christian Dior, Escada, Anne Klein, Kate Spade, Ralph Lauren, Bill Blass, Donatella Versace, and more.

What year did Barbie get her first car and what kind was it?

1962, Austin Healy

Who is Midge Hadley, and what's her husband's name?

Midge is Barbie's best and first friend, and Midge's husband is Allen Sherwood. They have two children.

What was the retail price of the first Barbie?

$3

What was the name of the first porcelain Barbie?

Blue Rhapsody

What was the last Barbie Carol Spencer designed before her retirement from Mattel in 1998?

Collector's Club exclusive "Cafe Society"

What was the name of Barbie's first horse?

Dancer

How many pets does Barbie have?

Over 40, including cats and dogs, horses, a panda, a lion cub, and a zebra.

Who was the first celebrity to become a doll in the Barbie family?

Twiggy

Name Barbie's five siblings in order of appearance.

Skipper (1964); the twins, Tutti and Todd (1966); Stacie (1992); and Kelly (1995)

What was the inspiration for Barbie and Ken's names?

Mattel founders Ruth and Eliot Handler named the dolls after their daughter, Barbara, and their son, Ken.

Barbie in Retro Sheen

The "Wedding Day" set, a beauty in satin and tulle, was originally available from 1959 to 1962. In 1997, it was reproduced for collectors.

In 1967, Barbie's face sculpt changed for the first time. Who was this doll, and what made her look different?

Twist 'N' Turn Barbie had a more youthful face and long, straight hair.

During the early 1960s, Barbie's look echoed those popular at the time, including her haircut. What was the haircut called?

The bubble cut, introduced in 1961, came in several colors.

Barbie in Retro Sheen

The 1960s look of "Red Flare" has been reproduced with its tent coat, three-quarter length sleeves, long gloves, and pillbox hat. This outfit was first available from 1962 to 1965.

Barbie was once offered dressed as a famous man. Who?

George Washington! Barbie as George Washington was an FAO Schwartz exclusive in 1996.

What was the all-time best-selling Barbie doll?

Totally Hair Barbie, released in 1992, came with ankle-length blonde or brunette hair that girls wanted to brush.

When did Barbie and Ken break up?

On Feb. 12, 2004, Mattel announced Barbie and Ken, after 43 years of dating, "have decided to spend some time apart."

When did Barbie run for president?

On Aug. 12, 2004, Barbie announced she was running for president as a member of the Party of Girls.

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