Make an old-fashioned ‘50s-style school dress for Ann Estelle and other 10-inch dolls by Tonner Doll Co.

By Marsha Olson

MATERIALS

• Less than ¼ yard of any lightweight woven fabric such as cotton batiste
• Scrap of contrast for collar
• 1 yard of ½-inch bias tape for trim
• 3 small sew-on snaps
• Thread to match fabric

INSTRUCTIONS

Step 1. Trace the collar pattern (No. 5) twice onto tissue paper. Cut around the tissue collar patterns, leaving at least a ¼ inch of paper. Pin the collar patterns to the double layer of fabric (right sides together) and sew through the paper along the stitching line, backstitching at each dot and leaving the top edge open to turn.

Step 2. Leaving the paper in place, cut out the collars along all the cutting lines. Tear away the paper and trim the seam allowance almost down to the line of sewing and clip. Turn and press the collars.

Step 3. The clip mark on the neck edge of the collar indicates the front. Butt the front edges of the two collar pieces together and, staying within the seam allowance, sew the two collars together using a few small zigzag stitches just above the ¼-inch seam line.

Step 4. Staystitch and clip the neck edge of the collar along the ¼-inch seam line.

Step 5. Sew the bias tape (purchased or made) to the bodice front (No. 1) along the lines shown on the pattern.

Step 6. Right sides together, sew the bodice front to the back (No. 2) at the shoulder seams. Press the seams open.

Step 7.  Staystitch and clip the neck and armholes.

Step 8. Matching center fronts, sew the collar to the bodice.

Step 9. Wrong sides together, press the cuff (No. 4) in half with the long edges meeting.

Step 10. Gather the hem edge of the sleeve (No. 3) to fit the cuff. Sew the cuff to the hem edge of the sleeve.

Step 11. Gather the cap of the sleeve between the notches and pull the gathers up evenly to fit the armhole. Right sides together, sew the sleeve to the armhole.

Step 12. Sew the side and sleeve seams together. Press the seams open.

Step 13. Assemble the lining by sewing the front to the back at the shoulder seams. Press the seams open.

Step 14. Staystitch and clip the lining armholes. Press the armhole seam allowance to the inside.

Step 15. Right sides together, sew the side seams of the lining.

Step 16. Right sides together, sew the lining to the bodice at the neck and back opening edges. Trim the corners and clip the neck edge.

Step 17. Turn the lining to the inside of the bodice and press the neck edge and back opening edges. Finish by hand-sewing the lining to the armholes of the bodice.

Step 18. Clean finish the hem and center back seam edges of the skirt (No. 6) with a serger or zigzag stitch and press the hem to the inside along the fold line indicated on the pattern.

Step 19. Pin the bias tape trim in place on the right side of the skirt so that the bottom edge of the tape will catch the top edge of the hem. Topstitch the tape in place along both edges. 

Step 20. Run two rows of gathering stitches along the top edge of the skirt. Pull the gathering stitches up evenly to fit the bodice.

Step 21. Sew the skirt to the bodice, leaving the bodice lining free. Press the seam up toward the bodice.

Step 22. Fold under the bottom edge of the bodice lining to cover the seam and hand-stitch in place.

Step 23. Sew the center back seam up to the clip mark and press the seam open.

Step 24. Sew a snap at the top of the back opening, one at the waist and one halfway between the first two.