By Marsha Olson

Note: This pattern is designed for all non-articulated Tyler Wentworth dolls.

MATERIALS

• Less than 1/4-yard each of firmly woven thin fabric for skirt and lining (suggested: duponi silk, silk batiste, or fine linen for the skirt; china silk, teffeta, or Swiss batiste for the lining)
• Thread to match fabric
• Size 12 sharp hand-sewing needle
• Sewing machine or hand-sew the entire piece

This skirt has double darts in the front and back. It is a pattern for a straight, fitted skirt with a narrow waistband that works well with almost any blouse, sweater, or top.

INSTRUCTIONS

• Note: Use 1/4-inch seam throughout
• Darts should always be pressed from the right side to avoid pressing in tucks at the points
• Because these are very small pattern pieces, compared to those for real people, make sure any pattern pieces marked "cut on the fold" are cut out seperately in order to get as accurate a cut as possible. For a well-fitted doll garment, the smallest deviation can make a difference. This cutting rule applies to the skirt front and skirt front lining.

Step 1: Mark each dart seam with a small clip into the seam allowance. Mark the point of the dart with a pin. Fold at the point of the dart and match two clips. Sew from the clips down to the point. Press all darts toward the side seams.

Step 2: Stitch the back (2) to the front (1) at hte side seams. Clip the curves at the hips. Press the seams open.

Step 3: Construct the lining following Steps 1 and 2.

Step 4: Pin the lining to the skirt and sew all three edges (back opening edges and hem) leaving the waist open to turn. This is not the traditional way of sewing a skirt together, but it is a much simpler way and involves only a little hand finishing. It also gives you a perfect fit every time, because you can pin the overlapping back eges right on the doll, and then slip the skirt off to do your finishing. Trim corners on the diagonal, turn, and press. Staystitch the waist edge and clip as needed to stretch the waist edge straight. Your machine only sews in a stright line, so the more "stright lines" you have, the easier it is to sew small garments.

Step 5: Press one long edge of the waistband (3) under 1/4 inch and trim the folded edge down to 1/8 inch. With right sides together, sew the unpressed edge of the waistband to the skirt, leaving a 1/4-inch overhang at each end. Trim the seam down to 1/8 inch. Fold the ends in and pin. Fold the pressed edge of the waistband to the inside, squaring the ends. Finish by hand.

Hand-Sewing Tip: For sewing by hand, cut thread no more than 15 inches long to avoid tangles. Wax the thread with beeswax or white candle wax. Pull the thread from under a hot iron to melt the wax into the thread. Cut the thread top at an angle to create a sharp point for ease in threading the needle. Knot only one end and sew with a single thread.

Step 6: For a perfect fit, here is the secret - overlap the back opening edges at least 1/4 inch and hand finish between the marks shown on the skirt back pattern, leaving the bottom overlapped for a knick-pleat.

Step 7: Finish the top opening with a snap at the waistband, as shown on the pattern. Sew the inside snaps to the lining only.

Article published in September 2004 Doll Reader.