By Marsha Olson
Even the cold weather doesn’t faze the forever fashionable 16-inch Ellowyne Wilde! Her cozy turtleneck sweater and a swingy pleated denim skirt with lots of topstitch details let her stay warm and snug through the winter.
MATERIALS
• Less than ¼ yard of any lightweight knit fabric for the sweater
• Less than ¼ yard of lightweight denim (or chambray) for the skirt
• Sew-on snaps
• Thread to match fabric
• Optional: a square of hemmed chiffon to tie around her neck or in her hair can add extra fashion flare
INSTRUCTIONS: SWEATER
Note: Clean finish all seams with a serger or zigzag stitch.
STEP 1. Sew the darts in the sweater front.
STEP 2. Sew the front to the back at the shoulder seams.
STEP 3. Staystitch and clip the neck and armholes.
STEP 4. Clean finish the back opening edges down to the clip on both sides. Clean finish the sleeve hems.
STEP 5. Sew in the sleeves by pinning the sleeve to the armhole and stretching as needed to fit.
STEP 6. Fold the collar in half lengthwise, wrong side out. Sew the two short ends. Trim the corners. Turn right side out. Sew the raw edges of the collar to the neck, folding in the back opening edges ¼ inch on each side.
STEP 7. Topstitch the back opening edges and around the neck, folding the collar seam down and stitching below the neck seam.
STEP 8. Sew the sleeve and side seams together. Clip at the curves.
STEP 9. Clean finish the leg openings, turn to the inside, and topstitch.
STEP 10. Sew the back seam up to the clip.
STEP 11. Sew the crotch seam.
STEP 12. Add snaps down the back of the sweater to close.
INSTRUCTIONS: SKIRT
STEP 1. Sew the darts in the skirt front and back. Press toward the side seams.
STEP 2. Sew the skirt front to the back at the side seams.
STEP 3. Clean finish the hem of the pleated skirt section. Press the hem up, and run a double row of topstitching.
STEP 4. Clip mark the pleats and pin in place. The finished width will equal the bottom edge of the skirt front and back that you already sewed together (about 9 inches).
STEP 5. Sew the pleated section to the skirt. Press the seam up.
STEP 6. Assemble the skirt lining. Press the hem edge of the lining to the inside. Sew the lining to the skirt along the back opening edges only. Turn the skirt right side out, and press the back opening edges. Finish the bottom edge by hand. On the right side run a double row of topstitching above the seam.
STEP 7. Make two photocopies of the “Skirt Front Decorative Band.” Pin the pattern pieces to your fabric. Sew the line of topstitch. Cut out the bands (trim out the gray areas), and tear off the pattern along the perforations made by the topstitching. Press the edges in using narrow strips of iron-on adhesive. Make the pocket flaps the same way.
STEP 8. Center a band and flap on each front skirt dart, and stitch both to the skirt waist edge.
STEP 9. Staystitch the waist edge of the skirt and clip.
STEP 10. Press one long edge of the waistband. Fold in the ends, and sew the waistband to the skirt on the wrong side of the skirt. Fold the pressed edge of the waistband to the right side of the skirt as far forward as you can. Topstitch the waistband along both long edges.
STEP 11. Sew a ½-inch buckle to each band through all layers where it meets the top edge of the pleated section.
STEP 12. Sew the back seam of the pleated section together overlapping the upper section about ¾ inch and finishing that by hand.
STEP 13. Add snaps to the waist and down the opening as needed.
For more, visit Marsha’s Web site at www.perfect-patterns.com.
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