Crafting > Sew For Your Doll

Sew a Darling Vintage Hankie Dress

By Sissy Lingle

Materials

• Doll
• Hankie (should have an attractive border)
• Fine Needle
• Thread
• Scissors
• Fine Pins
• Small Buttons
• Trim (such as silk ribbon, lace, etc.)

Instructions

Step 1. Fold hankie in half and place at the neck and shoulders of the doll to determine if it is the correct length (fig. 1).

Step 2. Fold over again, matching sides. Cut a ¼ circle from the center point, making a hole in the center no larger than a dime (fig 2). Slit back fold about 2/3 way down for back opening (figs. 2 & 3).

Step 3. Slip hankie on the doll, feet first, to make sure the opening is adequate for easy dressing.

Step 4. Use the “roll and whip stitch” to finish raw edges at the neck and back opening (fig. 4, A-F).

“Roll and Whip Stitch”
(A) Fold fabric 1/8 inch along the edge. (B) Knot thread and insert need up under the fold. (C) Next take a tiny stitch directly under the fold in the fabric. Note: need should always be parallel to the fold when stitching. (D) The next stitch is just along the top of the fold. (E) Repeat 5 to 8 of these stitches, ending with the bottom stitch. (F) Pull thread to roll hem over.

Step 5. Iron in Pleats: Lay the hankie flat on the ironing board. Have the iron set on “wool” setting. Spray the hankie lightly with spray starch (e.g. “Magic Sizing”) and iron flat.

Start at the neck edge on the shoulder finger please and iron a tuck from hem to hem. Make 3 or 4 more tucks as needed, trying to take advantage of the printed or embroidered design on the hankie. Lightly spray the tucks with starch and iron again to firmly set tucks.

Repeat for the other side of the neck edge (fig. 5).

Step 6. Stitching Tucks: Turn ironed hankie over to the wrong side. Choose the height above hankie hem to begin stitching on the tuck closest to the center of the hankie. To begin sewing the edge of the tuck to the hankie, catch a tiny stitch in the hankie and a tiny stitch on the edge of the tuck (fig. 6). Continue to the end of the tuck, keeping the tuck even and straight as you go.

Do the same with all of the other tucks.

Step 7. Put the dress on the doll and decide where to cut under the arm for the sleeve, allowing 1/4-inch extra for the seam (fig. 7).

Be careful not to cut any of the tucks, make a cut through both thicknesses of the hankie. Cut the other side of the same way for the other sleeve. On the wrong side, roll and whip the sleeve’s raw edges together under the arms only. Sew sides together. If the border is pretty outside, sew as in figure 8. If not, side edges can be seams to the inside of the dress.

Repeat for sleeve and side seam on other side.

Step 8. Make “crocheted button loops” on the back opening and sew on buttons (fig. 9, A-D).

Crocheted Button Loop
(A) With a double thread, make a loop on the back edge of the dress, fastened at both ends. (B) Bring the eye of the needle around and through the loop, and (C) pull the thread stitch gently up to the top of the loop. (D) Continue until the loop is full of stitches. Fasten off. Make more as needed for buttons.

Next, get creative! Does the hem need lace? Trim? Maybe little silk ribbon bows on the sides of the dress? Embroidery at the next? Have fun and finish it off. A simple slip can be made from a white hankie if needed.