Thrift store leather skirt, white or ivory

¼ yard of silk taffeta, white or ivory

Fur-like trim (fleece), white or ivory

2/3 yard of 2½-inch lace, white or ivory

½ yard of 1/8-inch ribbon, white or ivory

Matching thread

Jewelry rings: four 5-mm; eight ¼-inch (optional, see Corset step 3)

Eyelets: two ½-inch; two 3/8-inch; 11 1/8-inch (optional, see Cape step 4 and Corset step 3)

Buckles: two ¼-inch; one ½-inch (optional, see Corset step 3)

Six 1/8-inch sew-on snaps

 

Misc. Items: Basic sewing kit, fine-tip permanent marker, fabric glue, tools for setting eyelets, iron.

 

Notes

All seam allowances are ¼ inch (6 mm).

For smoother and flatter seams, always press seams open after stitching.

Unless otherwise noted, sew all pieces with right sides together.

When sewing with leather, always backstitch the beginnings and ends of the seams.

Finish all silk seams by serging or using Fray Check.

Topstitch leather items on top of the seams to hold them flat. Durelle also topstitched most of the outer edges for the steampunk element--this is strictly decorative and is optional.

 

Jodhpurs

1. Fold silk pants fabric with right sides together, forming two layers. Rough cut pattern pieces 11, 12, 13, and 14, and pin to fabric. Place piece 14 on fold as marked. Cut out all pieces.

 

2. Match the two back pieces (12) and sew the center back seam between the dots. Match the two front (11) pieces and sew the center front seam. Unfold pieces and match front to back. Sew outside leg side seams.

 

3. Match the front facing (14) to the back facings (13) at the sides and sew. Stitch narrow rolled hem along the bottom. With right sides together, match facing to pants at waist. Sew up back flap, around waist, and down second flap. Turn and press.

 

4. Match center front and back seams and sew the inseam of each leg. Turn and press. Sew snaps to back flaps. Hem pants by folding once and stitching. (If you intend to stuff the pants into boots, you need to avoid a bulky hem.)

 

Capelet and Cape

Note: The unlined leather capelet layers over the lined fabric cape to form one garment. Photocopy pattern pieces 8, 9, and 10 or trace them to a second piece of paper so you have a complete pattern to make the cape. NOTE: Pattern piece 10 is mismarked as #11. It is the cape on the third pattern sheet.

 

1. Cut out pattern pieces 8, 9, and 10, cutting at the capelet cutting line. Trace the pieces onto leather, placing piece 8 on the fold as marked. The capelet is unlined, so follow instructions for face fabric, being sure to flip pieces over before tracing the second time. Do not pin into the leather.

 

2. Unfold center back (8) and match to straight edges of side backs (9); sew. Match curved edges of front sides (10) to curved edges of side back; sew.

 

3. Cut a strip of fleece 10 inches long by 2 inches wide (25.4 cm by 5 cm). With right sides together, glue or stitch the fleece strip up one center front, around the neck, and down the other center front. Turn the fleece band back over the leather (do not fold the leather) to the reverse side of the capelet. Trim the fleece to an even band and carefully glue it on the back side.

 

4. Make the capelet closure from a narrow strip of leather about 3 inches long by ¼ inch (7.6 cm by 6 mm) wide. Topstitch and add 1/8-inch (3-mm) eyelets for decorative detail if desired. Lace the strip through two ¼-inch (6-mm) brass buckles and stitch buckles on each side of the neck opening. Glue the strap into place on one side only so you can lace the other end in and out

 

5. Fold cape fabric with right sides together, forming two layers. Rough cut pattern pieces 8, 9, and 10, and pin to fabric. Place piece 8 on fold as marked. Cut out all pieces. Repeat with lining fabric.

 

6. Follow step 2 above to assemble the cape, working first with the face fabric and then with the lining. As you work, press all seams open and flat. When sewing the lining pieces, leave a 1½-inch (3.8-cm) opening in one of the back seams for turning.

 

7. With right sides together, pillowcase the face and lining together. Sew around the outside edges, including the neck, front, and hem. Clip corners and neck seams. Turn the garment through the opening in the lining. Slipstitch the opening closed. Press carefully and topstitch edges if desired. To finish, handstitch the leather capelet to the long cape at the neckline.

 

Helmet and goggles

1. Trace pieces 1, 2, and 4 onto leather to match capelet, being sure to flip pieces 1 and 2 over before tracing the second time. Cut out.

 

2. Match helmet top pieces (2) and sew center top seam. Clip seams and topstitch flat. Clip helmet top on unsewn sides, making clips ¼ inch (6 mm) apart and stopping short of seam line. (Note: Clips help leather give when attached to the curved helmet sides.) With helmet side piece (1) on bottom, match a clipped edge of the helmet top to the curved edge of the helmet side and sew. Backstitch. Repeat for remaining side. Topstitch seams so they lie flat.

 

4. For the earmuffs, cut two circles of fleece (3) and two slightly smaller circles of leather. With the fuzzy side of the fleece facing the back side of the leather, glue them together. Find the center and set with a 3/8-inch eyelet. Glue back side of fleece to the helmet side as marked, so leather and fuzz is facing out. Repeat for second muff.

 

5. Cut a small strip of fleece and glue or stitch to front of helmet to resemble a bill. If desired, attach a buckle to one side of the strap and set 1/8-inch eyelets in the other side. If desired, topstitch all the edges.

 

6. For the goggles, trace piece 4 onto leather and cut out. From matching leather, cut a strip ¼ inch wide by 4 inches long (6 mm by 10.2 cm). If desired, topstitch all edges. Find the centers of the eye areas and set one ½-inch (1.2 cm) eyelet into each side. Thread two 5-mm jewelry rings onto each end of the goggles. Fold the leather and stitch or glue to hold rings in place. Weave the additional strap through the jewelry rings on each side to create the back strap. Cut ½-inch (1.2 cm) circles from a clear plastic food container and glue to the back sides of the eyelets (to look like glass).

 

1. Trace pieces 5, 6, and 7 onto leather, being sure to flip all pieces over before tracing the second time. Cut out.

 

2. Sew center back pieces (6) together at center back. Topstitch seam allowances flat. Sew side backs (7) to the center back. Topstitch seam allowances flat. Sew front sides (5) to side backs. Topstitch seam allowances.

 

3. To finish, inset four 1/8-inch (3-mm) eyelets down each side of corset and lace with ribbon.

            Alternatively, if desired, you can create leather fastenings. Cut four ¼-inch by 6-inch (6-mm by 15.2 cm) leather strips and two ½-inch by 3-inch (1.2-cm by 7.6-cm) leather strips. You will also need eight ¼-inch (6-mm) jewelry rings and one ½-inch (1.2-cm) decorative buckle. If desired, topstitch all edges before attaching. At the exact waist, glue one of the ½-inch strips on each side front piece. Attach the belt buckle on one side. Stitch or glue the ¼-inch strips side by side onto the corset, starting at the top of the belt buckle and working up. Leave excess ends on each side of corset front edges. Thread a ¼-inch jewelry ring onto the ends of each strip. Fold the strip over the ring, leaving ¼-inch of leather extending beyond the corset edge. Glue the ends of the strips back-to-back and trim off excess. Use the rings as eyelets to lace the corset.

 

Lace Camisole

Note:  The camisole is handstitched without a pattern from the length of 2½-inch (6.4-cm) wide lace. Please refer to the illustrations.

 

1. To create the bodice, cut a piece of lace 8½ inches (21.6 cm) long. Fold each end under by ½ inch (1.2 cm), two times, and stitch. This doubles the lace so it can support closures. The finished length of the lace should now be 6½ inches (16.5 cm).

 

2. Using pins, mark 2¼ inches (5.7 cm) in from each edge along the bottom (the edge with the least decorative elements). These are the fold lines for the darts. With right sides together, fold lace at pins. Measure ¾ inch (1.9 cm) from the edge and mark the starting point of the dart. Sew an angled line from the starting point to the edge, ending ¼ inch (6 mm) out from fold. Repeat for second dart.

 

3. To form the peplum, cut a 13-inch (33-cm) piece of lace. Hem ends so the finished piece is 12 inches (30.5 cm). Find the center and create a boxed pleat of about 1 inch. Press and pin in place. Form three equal-size knife pleats on each side of box pleat, folding outward in each direction. Press pleats and pin in place. The top of the peplum should now measure 5 inches.

 

4. Pin peplum to bottom of bodice and handstitch. To finish, fit to doll and close with four sew-on snaps.

 

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Contact Durelle Brown, Demi-Divas by Durelle, at Durelle_deco@yahoo.com.

(C) 2009 Durelle Brown. All rights reserved. Pattern is for educational and entertainment purposes only; finished garments may not be sold.