The fashions of modern Asian ball-jointed dolls are works of art, too.

By Melanie Larson, Mercy Neumark, and Lauren King

Ball-jointed dolls are not new to the doll world, but it was Asia, more specifically Japan, that turned this type of doll into a new medium for enthusiasts to love. Volks was the first company to release Asian ball-jointed dolls (ABJDs) with the creation in 1998 of the Super Dollfie: a 22-inch amazingly poseable (strung together by elastic cording) and fully customizable bombshell of a resin doll whose hair, hands, feet, heads, torsos, and eyes are interchangeable, and whose face paint can easily be removed/repainted.

Volks has since introduced several different-sized dolls such as SD 13, Mini, SDC, and Yo-SD, as well as different models and types such as Dollfie Dream and newer 1/6-scale lines like Neo & EB Beauty. The company has also inspired an “Asian invasion” of companies from Korea and China, all making their own modern ball-jointed dolls to compete for the ever-growing collector community in the U.S.

Companies like Luts, Alchemic Labo, and Custom House were some of Volks’ first real competitors. Now there are many doll manufacturers, as well as diverse customizers and a great array of clothing designers for these fantastic works of art. New doll companies are popping up, and the U.S. has been lucky enough to host the openings of several of the first non-Asian companies as well.

While ABJDs are considered a thing of beauty in their own right, it certainly doesn’t hurt to have gorgeous outfits, glittering jewelry, and other fantastic accessories adorning them. Many owners choose to pick up fabric and thread and create their own vision in keeping with the human-sized outfits they mimic. The individual artist market is amazing and well worth perusing, whether each style is to one’s taste or not. Volks and other companies have their own lines of clothing, with many of the limited pieces selling out in just minutes.

In the typical tradition of art imitating life, you’ll often find runway-worthy costumes displayed on ABJDs. Particularly noteworthy is what’s called “Japanese Street Fashion,” the Gothic, Gothic Lolita, and FRUiTS styles.

The Gothic style includes the familiar black clothes, black hair, and lots of fishnet, but it can be much more than the stereotype conjures. True, you’ll see plenty of dark makeup and heavy eyeliner, multiple piercings, and silver or pewter jewelry, but heavy Elizabethan and Victorian influences are also prevalent in this style. Full, detailed dresses and corsets with velvet, buckles, and lace abound. The footwear is just as elaborate, from intricate boots with chains, buckles, straps, and lace criss-crossing the entire shoe to the simple and sweet Mary Janes.

Gothic Lolita (Loli-Goth) is a combination of Lolita – dressing in primarily Victorian-inspired girls’ clothing, the cuter the better – and the basic Gothic style. Gothic Lolita gained popularity through Visual Kei (Visual Rock) bands in Japan. They are marked by very elaborate costumes and hairstyles designed to visually grab the attention of the viewer, hence the name.

The Gothic Lolita style is most often black or white or combinations thereof, commonly black with white lace trimmed by countless ribbons and lace. Skirts are knee length and may include petticoats to add volume. As is found in mainstream Japanese fashion, over-the-knee socks or stockings are extremely popular. Taking a cue from the Gothic trend, black fishnet stockings and white, black, or striped tights are also common. For footwear, shoes or boots with high heels (chunky, not stiletto) or the ever-classic Mary Janes are preferred.

The FRUiTS fashion style can’t be defined like most other fashions can. It has no form, no rules. It is the vision of only one person and what he or she wants to express on any given day. For some, it is a snub of all the high-fashion designs available at swanky exclusive boutiques. For others, it becomes an amazing creative outlet and an easy way to display their art. Initially, it consisted of vibrant combinations of citrus-y colors and patterns, hence the name. The clothes are often a mixture of high fashion and homemade ensembles, which, when combined, inevitably create a truly one-of-a-kind piece, never to be assembled quite the same again. FRUiTS commonly draws on a combination of Western and Eastern pop-culture icons, anime, and space-age cyber characters; punk and hippie fashions; and traditional Japanese attire. It is a contradiction in terms – cute but punk, childish but sexy – and all of it with the eye-catching and quirky look that is so uniquely Japan.

Something outside of the Japanese Street Fashion scene is Cosplay, the term coming from the combination of “costume” and “play.” This fashion subculture finds its origins in costumes based on manga (Japanese comic books), anime, video games, and, less commonly, Japanese live action television shows, movies, or pop bands. However, the term Cosplay has also been used to simply mean “wearing a costume.” It was a natural step for ABJD owners to also get involved in the Cosplay arena, because the strong tie to anime and manga in Cosplay fandom translates easily to the looks of many of the dolls.

With the dolls being so customizable, creativity is the key. Your creations are only limited by your imagination!

March/April 2006: Buy This Issue